Khao Bird is a newish northern Thai barbecue place in Soho that offers a modern take on regional Thai cuisine. The restaurant features a resolutely modern room with gleaming mirrors and polished concrete floors, and serves dishes such as raw beef larb with Campari, miang, Shan meatballs, fresh khanon jeen noodles with prawn curry, grilled chicken, and khao soi. The cooking wisely steers away from the wilder shores of northern Thai food but offers a splendidly spiced blast of Siamese succour.
Fresh bovine bile is not the sort of ingredient you can pick up at the local Tesco. A key component of traditional Laotian larb, it’s extracted from the gallbladder of a cow and tastes as bitter as a spurned lover.
Campari, on the other hand, can be grabbed from the local offie and has similarly obstreperous, albeit rather less primal, allure. Which is why it’s such an inspired addition to the raw beef larb at Khao Bird, a newish northern Thai barbecue place in Soho. The dish has a deeply bosky appeal, sticky, dark and jungly in the best way, livid with chillies and the medicinal tang of galangal. Whole peppercorns provide tiny explosions of fragrant delight.
It’s a full-blooded, no-holds-barred mouthful and typical of London’s new breed of regional, largely farang-run, Thai restaurants – see Som Saa, Speedboat Bar, Smoking Goat and Kiln. David Thompson, it can be argued, is the godfather of them all, an Australian legend who not only mastered the Thai language but travelled the land documenting recipes that may otherwise have been lost.
Thai Food is his masterpiece, one of the great cookbooks of the past 50 years, and his London restaurant, Nahm, was a decade before its time. Khao Soi: ‘a fantastically complex curry
Thai Cuisine Khao Bird Raw Beef Larb Campari Miang Shan Meatballs Fresh Khanon Jeen Noodles Grilled Chicken Khao Soi
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