Penn State Abington professor’s new book, “Shakespeare in the Kitchen,” looks at the playwright’s works with a culinary gaze.
Penn State Abington professor’s new book, “Shakespeare in the Kitchen,” looks at the playwright’s works with a culinary gaze. While nearly half a millennium and an entire ocean may separate Philadelphia and William Shakespeare’s England, there is one thread that binds both: we all have simultaneously global and local diets.
While people in Shakespeare’s time centered their diet upon local, seasonal produce — much like those of us who shop at the Food Trust’s farmers’ markets — they also loved imported ingredients.
“They loved novelty and fish from other European markets. They were pouring Italian olive oil on salads and sprinkling cinnamon verum on sweets. They became increasingly heavy handed with sugar grown in the Caribbean,” Nicosia said. Like those of us who also shop for global staples at say, Acme or Di Bruno’s.
“Shakespeare is full of food references. Some are ominous, like Hamlet saying, ‘The funeral baked meats did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables. ’ Some are ambiguous, like the ‘ill-roasted egg’ that Feste mentioned. And some are positive and interesting, like Falstaff talking about ‘sack,’ a fortified wine,” said Nicosia.
Interpreting these dishes in the present day has given her a deeper understanding of Shakespeare. Originally from Verona, N.J. to a syrup of violets to venison pasties , are rather easily executable in a standard home kitchen, provided you have access to their ingredients.
But lack of access can also draw us closer to Shakespeare, whose food supply would have been affected by storms, wars, and disruption in trade routes – similar problems that plague our own fragile food supply. Nicosia has had to make concessions for modernity, such as using American granulated cane sugar for syrups and fruit conserves, but also using tools that did not exist in Shakespeare’s day.
Her capon recipe was “really written for a spit in front of a fire and my doing this in an oven is a big adaptation. ” “But if you’re engaging with Shakespeare, whether reading his works or going to see a play, it’s a delicious addition to cook something of his, too, in order to understand his world in a new way,” said Nicosia.
“Shakespeare in the Kitchen” can be found at the bookstore Binding Agents in the Italian Market and online, wherever books are sold. Nicosia will be in conversation with food editor Margaret Eby at Binding Agents from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. June 4. Tickets are $10 and available throughI am a former chef and restaurateur. I write stories about food, chefs, and restaurants, and examine the systems and structures behind them. 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