Audiences are reinvigorating the 1980s aesthetic with fragrances that recall the bold, opulent, and unapologetically feminine fragrances of the era.
It's had us craving retro dinner party food, jodhpurs and big hair - so it's no wonder that steamy hit TV show Rivals is also bringing back yet another 80s beauty staple.
Thanks to series two of the raunchy Disney+ show inspired by Jilly Cooper's book - set more than 40 years ago - proving to be a hit once again, audiences are now reaching for the powdery perfumes that defined the decade. Complementing the big shoulder pads, colourful Lycra and peachy blush of the era, fragrances were just as powerful, opulent and unapologetically feminine.
And experts say it's all part of a greater resurgence of scents from as far back as 100 years ago - which have stood the test of time. According to Perfume Direct, the revival goes beyond nostalgia, rather showing that 'audiences are responding to a wider shift towards escapism, glamour and personality after years dominated by neutral aesthetics and understated fragrances'.
'People are becoming bored of fragrances that disappear instantly or smell almost identical,' said fragrance expert Jonny Webber. 'The Rivals aesthetic is bringing individuality back. Fashion became louder. Interiors became richer.
And now fragrance is following exactly the same pattern.
'It has brought back a very specific kind of glamour. Everything in the show feels polished, excessive and confident - and fragrance was a huge part of that aesthetic in the 1980s.
'Back then, people wanted perfumes that made an impression. You could smell the fragrance before someone even entered the room.
'We're now seeing that appetite return, particularly for some of the 1980s' most iconic scents – from Opium to Lou Lou. 'They're fun, well-priced and unmistakably nostalgic. ' Read on to see which retro perfumes will have you channelling retro glamour... RETRO PERFUMES WHICH WERE A HIT IN THE 80s...
Yves Saint Laurent Opium £105 ShopOne of the defining perfumes of the 1980s, Opium perfectly captures the drama and decadence of the decade thanks to its rich blend of amber, spice, carnation and vanilla.
'Opium is the fragrance equivalent of a velvet blazer, gold jewellery and a martini at a country-house party,' Jonny said. 'It's bold, confident and instantly recognisable. ' Giorgio Beverly Hills £23 ShopNothing says unapologetic 1980s luxury quite like Giorgio Beverly Hills, Johnny added. Its sweet floral scent became the fragrance of wealth, excess and California glamour.
Johnny added: 'This is the kind of fragrance that completely fills a room... It captures the oversized confidence that people are suddenly craving again.
' Calvin Klein Obsession £20.60 Shop'Obsession is pure Rivals energy,' Jonny explained. 'It's bold, glamorous and slightly over-the-top in the best possible way. This is not a subtle fragrance and that's exactly why people are rediscovering it.
' The fragrance remains popular and has a lasting legacy as an 80s staple. Warm, spicy and instantly recognisable, the fragrance blends amber, vanilla, sandalwood and oriental spices for a scent that feels dramatic and seductive. Guerlain Shalimar £109 ShopAlthough originally launched much earlier, Shalimar became a staple dressing-table fragrance throughout the 1980s thanks to its powdery vanilla warmth and luxurious feel.
Perfume Direct said that the return of polished 'old money' aesthetics has helped revive interest in more classic, sophisticated scents like this.
'Shalimar feels expensive in a timeless way,' Jonny explained. 'It fits perfectly with the Rivals aesthetic because it smells elegant rather than trendy. ' Cacharel Lou Lou £22.99 ShopPowdery, sweet and packaged in a fun blue bottle, Lou Lou became one of the decade's most unforgettable perfumes which still feels 'unapologetically vintage' today. Johnny said: 'Lou Lou has that perfectly theatrical 1980s personality...
It's playful, dramatic and instantly transportive. People want fragrances with character again and Lou Lou absolutely delivers that.
' Estee Lauder Beautiful £51 ShopBeautiful combines rose, lily, tuberose and orange flower for a soft and romantic - but fragrant - finish. 'Beautiful feels very country-house elegance,' Jonny shared. 'It has that polished femininity that fits perfectly with the Rivals world of dinner parties, tailoring and excess. ' Aramis Eau de Toilette £32.99 ShopJohnny said that Aramis became one of the defining executive fragrances of the era thanks to its woody, mossy and leathery profile.
'The Rivals male aesthetic is very Ralph Lauren, Barbour jackets, sharp tailoring and country-house masculinity,' he added. 'Aramis fits that perfectly. ' Coty Exclamation! £8.99 ShopFun and playful, Coty's Exclamation is 'a sharp, oriental, floral fragrance for women blended with apricot, peach, bergamot, lily-of-the-valley, amber and sandalwood'.
Paloma Picasso £32.50 ShopLaunched in 1984, Paloma Picasso is an exquisite perfume that exudes an air of sophistication and refinement – 'Exactly the kind of fragrance that fits the heightened world of Rivals.
' Jonny explained. 'And that's exactly why younger fragrance buyers are rediscovering it now. ' PLUS THE OTHER THROWBACK SCENTS WE ALL STILL LOVE... 1970s Clinique, Aromatics Elixir £92 ShopHerbal notes like sage and coriander add to the fresh and uplifting feel of this nostalgic fragrance.
According to Harrods, 'it kicks off with toning and astringent qualities that also give the sense of calm, while the mid-notes are drenched in warm oakmoss with a touch of a clean floral scent'. However, finally, 'you'll notice the seductive aroma of patchouli with a warm, woody scent'. Estee Lauder, Aliage £69.50 ShopAliage first came out in 1972, popularising itself an earthy, woody scent. Bottles are still sold on online retailers like Cosmetify.
Chanel Cristalle £149 ShopBringing a fresh, floral scent as a contender to the popular powdery fragrances of the 70s, this scent channels 'the invigorating breath of a weekend in the country, the reflection of a pure and free elegance'. Includes Hyacinth, Honeysuckle and Jasmine. 1960s Rochas, Madame £27.75 ShopTouted as an 'elegant' perfume for the modern woman, Rochas describes Madame as 'the olfactory mirror that reflects Hélène Rochas and a generation of emancipated women, masters of their own destinies'.
Described as a 'woody' fragrance with hyacinth, neroli, honeysuckle and bergamot, it combines the intense with the fresh and floral. Hermès, Calèche £144.90 ShopCalèche, coming out in 1961, was the luxury designer's first-ever fragrance for women.
'Its name echoes the carriages that are emblematic of the House: a light and elegant 19th-century horse-drawn conveyance,' according to Hermès, adding a sophisticated flare for any wearer, with jasmine and rose scents. Diptyque, L’Eau £145 ShopThis French brand is trendy as ever today - but has been a hit since as far back as the 60s.
Diptyque is still enjoying the success of its fragrance L’Eau, which combines geranium, clove, cinnamon and ginger. 1950s Estée Lauder, Youth Dew £60 ShopUnlike the other fragrances on this list, Youth Dew was originally released as a bath oil in 1953. Opulent flowers, rich spices and precious woods make this one of the most sensual fragrances of all time – with top notes of rose, jonquil and lavender and base notes of moss, vetiver and patchouli.
Christian Dior, Diorissimo £125 ShopDescribed as a 'romantic' fragrance, this floral perfume combines a few fan favourites of the decade, including lily of the valley, lilac and jasmine just to name a few. Givenchy, L'interdit £63.99 ShopStrawberry, spices, peach and bergamot are the main scents behind this nostalgic fragrance, which was originally created as a gift for Audrey Hepburn.
While it has been reformulated and re-released over the years, it still remains popular. 1940s Dior, Miss Dior Originale £125 ShopFirst released in 1947, Miss Dior sold well after the war when lighter perfumes became popular. A floral and feminine heart boasts Indian and Egyptian jasmine absolute with essence of Damask rose.
Balenciaga, Le Dix £230 ShopThe designer's first ever perfume – a reconstructed version of which is now sold –features strong, heady notes synonymous with the decade, with violet leaf absolute and incense essential oils. Meaning 'The ten' in French, in reference to its first couture salon on 10 Avenue George V in Paris. Nina Ricci, L'Air du Temps £65 ShopFirst released in 1948, this scent sold in huge numbers in the 1950s.
A fresh and timeless fragrance blending bergamot, peach and carnation with rose and jasmine. 1930s Dana, Tabu £27.99 ShopThis strong, heady fragrance was known for its marketing as 'the forbidden fragrance', advertised with a print of a couple in a passionate embrace. It evoked sensuality with top notes including neroli and bergamot, while musk and cedar also feature. Various retailers sell the perfume today.
Guerlain, Vol de Nuit £111 ShopThis 1933 perfume – named after an Antoine Saint Exupery novel, which tells the story of a couple separated by a doomed night fight – is a nostalgic powdery scent that blends together galbanum, narcissus, bergamot and other citrusy notes. Elizabeth Arden, Blue Grass £38 ShopInitially released in 1934, Elizabeth Arden's Blue Grass is a 'fresh feminine floral bouquet with spicy woody undertones'.
As per the designer, 'opening a bottle of Blue Grass Eau de Parfum Spray is like an instant trip to the countryside on a warm summer day'. 1920s Chanel, No. 5 £149 ShopFirst launched in 1921, this powdery floral bouquet is composed around May rose and jasmine, with bright citrus top notes of bergamot, aldehydes, lemon and neroli. Molinard, Habanita £80 ShopMolinard's first ever fragrance, Habanita, is known for its strong, musky preference and overpowering scent.
Geranium, jasmine, oak foam and amber can all be picked up in this scent, which in 2012 was re-released in an even stronger concentration. A 75ml bottle is available for £80.
Lanvin Arpège £34.34 ShopWhile still maintaining its elegant vintage scents - 'blending aldehydes, jasmine, and rose with a warm base of sandalwood and vanilla, offering a long-lasting scent ideal for elegant daily wear' - its formula was modernised in 1993. 1910s The designer came out with its L'Heure Bleue scent in 1912, inspired by impressionistic olfactory canvas. The site describes how 'Jacques Guerlain merged the violet accord and iris with the creamy ivory of vanilla, leaving a bewitching fragrance trail of both fresh and warm nuances'.
Acqua di Parma, Colonia £156 ShopThis citrusy, unisex fragrance came out in 1916 – and has, after all these years, maintained its cult status as the epitome of Italian chic. It's noted for its heavy, lemon scent. Caron, Tabac Blond £365 ShopNow considered a luxury, Tabac Blond by Caron encapsulates the roaring 20s, 'where the intensity of leather blends with the powdery notes of carnation'.
According to the perfumer, the fragrance offers 'earthy accents of vetiver and patchouli, coupled with the smoky notes of cistus labdanum and vulcanised styrax essence'. A 100ml bottle is €410, or £365. 1900s Floris, Edwardian Bouquet £220 ShopEdwardian Bouquet by Floris, making its debut at the turn of the century, offered a strong floral scent which to this day touts 'eternal modernity and elegance'.
So lasting is its legacy that it has been reintroduced more than once over the years. It enjoyed a renaissance in 1984, when according to Fragrantica, the original formula was rediscovered in family archives, and again in 2024. Coty, Ambre Antique Parfum £285 ShopIn 1905, nothing was more Parisian-chic than a bottle of Ambre Antique, which blended sultry notes of bergamot, jasmine, orange blossom and rose together.
And in 2025, the company came out with an exclusive drop of 1,905 bottles to commemorate the fragrance's lasting effect. Detaille £90 ShopThe Maison Detaille was set up in Paris in 1905, and its eponymous women's fragrance has certainly stood the test of time. It's described as having 'fresh' floral top notes of violet and jasmine – and a 'darker' base featuring oak moss and sandalwood. A 100ml bottle costs €105 – or about £90.
Retro Perfumes 1980S Scents Escapism Glamour Personality Yves Saint Laurent Opium Giorgio Beverly Hills Calvin Klein Obsession Guerlain Shalimar Cacharel Lou Lou Estee Lauder Beautiful Aramis Eau De Toilette Coty Exclamation!
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