A nine-day journey across islands in Hawaii reveals a complex and multifaceted archipelago, far beyond the stereotypes of tropical beaches and sun-kissed days. From the summit of Mauna Kea to the North Shore of Oahu, and from the Iolani Palace to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, this article explores the many ways in which Hawaii defies its stereotypes and offers a wealth of experiences for visitors to discover.
A chill slinks up my spine as the last trace of sunset disappears below the horizon, and the vast, velvet sky comes alive with stars.
Above me, a dusting of constellations flickers to life. I'm perched nearly 14,000ft above sea level near the summit of Mauna Kea on Hawaii itself, confirming what my nine-day journey across islands has shown: this archipelago, culturally and geographically complex, is much more than a simple beach destination. But the realisation comes in hindsight. When I first arrive in Honolulu, on the island of Oahu, my expectations are of tropical beaches and little more.
My hotel, Romer House, is a 10-minute walk from the famous Waikiki Beach - a shoreline known for postcard sunsets and long, consistent waves. However, this is also where the myth of Hawaii collides with an urban reality of high-rise hotels designed for mass tourism. As I start to head inland, the tone shifts. Downtown, Iolani Palace is a regal addition to an otherwise unassuming patch of city.
This grand building was the seat of Hawaii's monarchy until 1893, when Queen Lili'uokalani was overthrown by a provisional government that paved the way for annexation by the US. Inside, you'll find rooms restored with period furniture, from gilded mirrors to grand portraits of monarchs. The Hawaiian monarchy cultivated close ties with Britain, adopting our ceremonial fashion and court etiquette to assert itself as a modern sovereign state.
That fascinating, unexpected relationship can be seen interwoven in modern Hawaii; the state flag features the Union Jack. Visitors to Honolulu, Oahu, can head downtown to the Iolani Palace, where close ties between the Hawaiian and British monarchy can be keenly felt. But if you do want the coast - and of course you do - swap the crowded strip for the North Shore, a 40-minute drive from Honolulu.
The area draws the best surfers to breaks like Pipeline in winter. I order a shave ice to ease the heat - a Hawaiian staple made from ice finely shaved, then drizzled in fruit syrups. If you're in the quaint town of Hale'iwa, order from Matsumoto Shave Ice, slinging 'snow' for 75 years. The drive back to the capital reveals even more of the island away from the coast.
On the windward edge, I stop at Kualoa Ranch, a dramatic 4,000-acre patch of land that rises into steep valleys. Many will have seen this working ranch on the screen: it stood in for prehistoric worlds in Jurassic Park, a fantasy world in Jumanji, and a war zone in Lost.
'Many visitors to the islands only scratch the surface of this special place,' says Noah 'Keola' Ryan from North Shore Eco Tours. 'Malihini (visitors) can discover so much more if they dare to look beyond the tourist attractions and seek out knowledgeable kama'aina (locals). ' This feels even more true on the main island of Hawaii, which gets significantly fewer tourists than Oahu and Maui, and feels less curated.
For those after a chance to explore Hawaii's magnificent beaches, venture to the North Shore on Oahu, a 40-minute drive from Honolulu. Many come here for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, home to two active volcanoes: Kilauea and Mauna Loa. On my visit, there's no lava in sight. Instead, steam rises from cracks in the miles-wide crater, as if the island is breathing.
The coast does have its place on a holiday here. Punalu'u Beach isn't the golden sand stereotype, but black and granular, a legacy of cooled lava flows. It's a site for green sea turtles, which lounge by the water, mottled shells catching the light. And despite its reputation for sun-kissed days, another incredible experience in Hawaii is nocturnal.
After darkness falls on Kailua-Kona, on the west coast, I join a group in canoes, paddling out into the water to lights fixed beneath the waves. Snorkel on, I slip beneath the surface, holding still as manta rays spanning several meters circle above me. From under the water to higher than the clouds, Hawaii exceeds expectations. I saw only two of the 130-plus islands - a little hole to heaven, as Oahu-based musician Jack Johnson might say
Hawaii Travel Island Beaches Sun-Kissed Days Mauna Kea Oahu North Shore Iolani Palace Hawaii Volcanoes National Park Kilauea Mauna Loa Punalu'u Beach Green Sea Turtles Manta Rays Nocturnal Experiences Jack Johnson
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