A new breed of bar-restaurant hybrids by names like Eleven Madison Park are emerging, offering a snack-size vision of fine dining. Here's why.
on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, my table was filled with raw scallops on crisp cabbage leaves, a griddled lobster-chanterelle sandwich, mackerel slivers on warm toasts, and smashed and fried lion’s-mane schnitzel. The small plates added up to a decent meal—and the kind of hefty bill that I’ve come to expect at a certain kind of beverage-focused not-quite restaurant: Including a dainty quenelle of corn ice cream and a bottle of Savagnin, I dropped close to $400.
There’s a lot swirling in the restaurant ether that got us to this moment—and the massive popularity of appetite-killing weight-loss meds like Ozempic isn’t much of a factor, chefs say. Just an overdue recalibration of what constitutes luxury versus excess; omakase counters are thriving, after all. But it has become clear to many in the restaurant business that the tasting-menu landscape is oversaturated. Diners have grown weary of eating for hours on end, sometimes until they’re nearly sick.
The pressure didn’t relent until the pandemic shuttered the restaurant, but it was that turmoil that steeled Stone to take reputational risks. Contra could either get even fancier and remain the center of his universe or revert to something simpler that would allow him and von Hauske Valtierra to grow their business sustainably.
Young chef E. J. Lagasse reminded me that plenty of fine-dining restaurants have adjoining bars with drinks and snacks at the ready: Le Bernardin’s, the bar at EMP. That’s part of the reason he and his father, Emeril, installed a wine bar next to the remodeled 12-table dining room at Emeril’s. E. J. also didn’t want to produce tasting menus at volume, and the wine bar, he says, fits into the rhythms of New Orleans drinking culture.
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