At the restaurant behind Roberta’s, the Chile-born chef Victoria Blamey offers flavors that are strong and occasionally disorienting, Helen Rosner writes.
Brandon Hoy and the chef Carlo Mirarchi, the owners of Roberta’s, first opened Blanca in 2012. They offered an enormously ambitious tasting menu that simultaneously stuck a middle finger up at the conventions of ultra-high-end dining and remained firmly within its framework. It was dizzyingly expensive, edgy-cool in a way that was more than a little terrifying, and a total blast.
Blanca, now as before, is not Fancy Dining 101: Flavors are strong, unexpected, and occasionally disorienting, as in a bowl of tender pasta purses filled with lavender and snails, or a length of sweet king-crab leg draped in a vanilla-scented sauce reminiscent of melted ice cream. Some dishes appear initially to be straightforwardly delicious but on second or third bite reveal a seemingly intentional disharmony.
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