Restaurant review: Apna Chulha’s Indian food rises above the rest

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Restaurant review: Apna Chulha’s Indian food rises above the rest
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Apna Chulha has already proven to be my new favorite Indian restaurant in the neighborhood. This is a welcome addition to Valencia Street.

Apna Chulha opened about two months ago in the cavernous space left behind by West of Pecos. The owners have dolled the place up quite a bit; the space feels warm and elegant, with dark wood tones and a bank of enormous, gleaming copper pots for the lunch/brunch buffet girding the bar area.

On my first visit, I was determined to have some dishes I’d never tried before. First up, fish pakora:I cannot stress enough how surprisingly good this was. It was surprising because of the ethereal lightness of the crispy coating and the extreme juiciness of the fish itself . Served with three chutneys that ranged from mild to quite hot, this was a favorite dish of the night, in a night of favorites.

We were really quite full, but our friendly server brought us two little glasses of kheer — India’s lovely, milky rice pudding — on the house. A light and sweet finish to our meal.

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