It Pays to Be a Regular at a Restaurant — Especially at the Holidays

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It Pays to Be a Regular at a Restaurant — Especially at the Holidays
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Holidays can be celebrated many ways, including having Thanksgiving at a restaurant. But if you're going to have Thanksgiving — or any holiday — at a restaurant, there are things you should do to be the best customer possible. Chefs and restaurant owners share their tips for eating at a restaurant on a holiday.

The first time I had Thanksgiving dinner in a restaurant was at the tail end of the 20th century. My parents had made the trip from Kentucky to Baltimore, and what’s more, they’d offered to pay for my train ticket and dinner at what seemed like an impossibly fancy hotel restaurant buffet, where I loaded my plate with

One solitary couple stood out from the crowd, so elegant and content in their own company that I could not resist their gravity. Servers and bussers bantered with them, leaving their orbit smiling despite the obvious chaos of a holiday lunch shift. Maybe they were regulars. Maybe they were, palming wads of cash to staff. Maybe they were just vocally mindful of the fact that the people tending to them were, you know, people. It stuck with me.

We watched John and his team weave magic around the dining room, and we tucked into our turkey roulade with jus and brown butter–parsnip puree, along with the chestnut dressing that the chef and co-owner, Christopher Cipollone, made to honor his late father. Though he wouldn’t get to sit down to a plate of his own for many more hours, John was in his element.

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