New trails and openings are setting up this wild Welsh county as an adventure enthusiast’s dream, whether you want to explore its landscapes on foot, by bike or in a kayak.
New trails and openings are setting up this wild Welsh county as an adventure enthusiast’s dream, whether you want to explore its landscapes on foot, by bike or in a kayak.Picture a classic Welsh landscape and chances are you’ll find it in Carmarthenshire.
Pinched between Pembrokeshire and the Gower Peninsula, the county’s coastline is strung with winding paths and blonde-sand beaches. Head north east, and its untamed interior — a web of tussocky grasslands and mist-laced mountains — soon collides with the grandeur of Bannau Brycheiniog National Park . All of this makes Carmarthenshire a heavenly setting for outdoor pursuits, while a thriving local food scene ensures adventurers are carried through with full bellies.The three-mile walk from the village of Llanddeusant to Llyn Y Fan Fach is particularly dramatic. The path to the lake traces tumbling, rocky streams to a sprawling glacial pool — said to be the setting for the Lady of the Lake legend, in which a fairy princess emerges from the water. Further west, the new Tywi Valley Path — a walking and cycling trail that traces a former railway line — opens its final section on 15 May. The 16-mile route follows the gently weaving River Tywi from the town of Carmarthen, passing deep green pastures and the hilltop ruins of Dryslwyn Castle before reaching the pastel-hued town of Llandeilo., or River Teifi’s ominously named Cauldron rapids. Otherwise, glide on a standup paddleboard or in a kayak at Swiss Valley Reservoir. Afterwards, head to woodland, in Ammanford, leans into the town’s mining history. Inside the buzzy cafe, look out for the black and white photograph showing the founder’s great-grandfather and his colleagues taking a well-deserved break from the mines. The coffee blends roasted here range from the fruity Anthracite to the chocolaty Candlelight.: Independent cafe Pitchfork & Provision, in Llandeilo, sells a selection of artisan baked goods, including pastries and 36-hour sourdough bread.: a deli and cafe in Llanarthney, near the Tywi Valley Path. Tables are piled with locally made honeys, preserves, beers and house-made tomato catsup. The cafe’s signature dish is a Cubano sandwich stuffed with pork belly, Hafod cheese and sriracha mayo. Dinnertime is best spent at local favourite, in Capel Dewi. Dotted with wooden tables and shelves lined with cookery books, the family-owned restaurant uses Welsh ingredients to craft European-influenced dishes like venison and pancetta hotpot and lamb with caponata, pine nuts and a red wine sauce., a restored 18th-century inn. Each of the six individually decorated rooms is set under exposed beams and slung with hand-dyed wool blankets made in Pembrokeshire. The wood burners in the downstairs pub, which attracts a mix of locals and visitors, set a relaxed scene for meals of home-smoked salmon, cod with pickled fennel, and chocolate mousse. From £120, B&B., in Llansteffan. Expect homely rooms with personality — one has a red-velvet chaise longue, another terracotta walls. The downstairs bar hosts live music from bluesy singer-songwriters, Irish roots bands and more. From £160, B&B.TRAVEL
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