Zapotecs, an Indigenous group from Oaxaca, are frequently discriminated against in Mexico and in the United States by their fellow Mexicans. Now they are fighting back peacefully by serving free fresh frijoles on L.A. streets.
Last Saturday at the height of a scorching afternoon, Adela Ruiz and her husband, Paco, hopped out of their van and hurriedly set up a taco stand on Pico Boulevard in Arlington Heights. They were late.
“Pass by — free food!” he cheerily announced in Spanish. “We’ll wait for you here!” He zoomed in on Adela, who worked a tortilla press like a boss, as the youngest daughter also filmed on her smartphone. The earthy smell of slowly cooking masa filled the air. “Come here,” Paco added, “so these 100 chile rellenos can be finished!”It was the third time in as many months that the Ruiz family had driven up from Orange County to hand out free, home-cooked food from this stretch of Pico.
But a big thing was missing from their efforts: festivals. Basketball tournaments and church festivals in honor of hometown patron saints. The local rendition of Oaxaca’s annual state fair — also called Guelaguetza — isn’t scheduled again until 2022. Imports from the state, the lifeline of Oaxacan restaurants in Southern California,Alex Lopez, 39, left, and his 17-year-old son distribute tepache for free as part of Mid-City Cookouts.
There have been 12 Mid-City Cookouts so far, and vendors get paid around $700 per session. What used to be weekly events are now biweekly, because funds are beginning to dry up for reasons Mireles can’t quite gauge. But the spirit of this mini-The Ruiz family have run their catering operation for three years. The pandemic slowed orders, so they would’ve never thought of giving away their grub for. But Mid-City Cookouts “opened our eyes,” Paco said, “to be able to help others and ourselves.
Outside, Joe Nankin stocked a community fridge with bags of Brussels sprouts, bread and Samoas Girl Scout cookies. He had originally come to Mid-City Cookouts as an eater but quickly became a volunteer.
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