Barbecue: The Black and Indigenous roots of an American tradition

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Barbecue: The Black and Indigenous roots of an American tradition
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Barbecue is ubiquitous in America, but the role of Black chefs and Indigenous traditions in creating that culture has been largely overlooked.

, one of the most beloved barbecue side dishes , which was introduced to America by James Hemings, the French-trained Black chef who was enslaved by President Thomas Jefferson.

“Because of racism in our society, there were only a few occupations that Black people could do without generating white resentment, and being in food service was one of them,” Miller said. “You could eke out living, but there were situations where people actually prospered. So, it was a chance for upward mobility. The challenge for Black entrepreneurs is often they have a lack of access to capital and face other structural impediments.

There were only a few occupations that Black people could do without generating white resentment, and being in food service was one of them.— presented a very narrow picture of barbecue, denying visibility to the Black pitmasters who were so pivotal to barbecue, he said.

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