One thing Chanel badly needed during the Virginie Viard era was lightness — the latest couture collection had just that.
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Getty Images, Courtesy of Chanel, Courtesy of Julie de Libran
The collection was loaded with unexpected colors, like citron, emerald, cherry red, and periwinkle, and the house seemed to be making the case that the vivid palette — used as a lining for speckled tweed suits, as the upper portion of a dress in a two-piece outfit, for some evening styles — can also be found in the Chanel archive. No doubt, but the jumpy brights weren’t handled so imaginatively.
But Libran is a time traveler, so there was a whiff of the 1960s in the collection, too. Among her best looks were a deep rusty-red gown with a V-neck and medieval sleeves, and a fringe of tiny chains embroidered across the back and partially down the sleeves; a tunic and matching trousers in silvery panne velvet; and evening separates in cream-colored sequins that, through some magic, looked slightly worn in places, like plush fabrics with a memory.
The performance was clever, with surprising and subtle echoes of a marriage, and also of some of the ’90s designers that Saillard loves, like Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Ann Demeulemeester.
United States Latest News, United States Headlines
Similar News:You can also read news stories similar to this one that we have collected from other news sources.
Cathy Horyn’s Couture Fashion Review: Schiaparelli and DiorIs Daniel Roseberry aware that his molded shapes mimic the culture and, to an extent, mirror his audience?
Read more »
Cathy Horyn Review: Peter Copping’s Lanvin DebutCopping is the third designer to succeed Alber Elbaz, whose remake of Lanvin in the early 2000s was one of the most successful in recent fashion history. Can he remake the brand?
Read more »
Taylor Swift Cheers on Travis Kelce in Chanel, Chanel, and More Chanel With Caitlin ClarkSwift was joined by the WNBA star to root for the triumphant Kansas City Chiefs.
Read more »
Backstage at Giambattista Valli Spring 2025 Couture at Paris Couture WeekThis news provides a glimpse into the behind-the-scenes preparations for Giambattista Valli's Spring 2025 Couture collection at Paris Couture Week.
Read more »
Yuima Nakazato Spring 2025 Couture at Paris Couture WeekYuima Nakazato showcased his Spring 2025 Couture collection at Paris Couture Week.
Read more »
Kylie Jenner Makes Her Chanel Couture Debut in ParisKylie Jenner attended her first Chanel couture show in Paris, taking in the spring 2025 collection. Jenner praised the striking red dress as her favorite look and expressed her admiration for Chanel's ability to blend timeless elegance with modern sensibilities. She also shared her love for the brand's accessories and its legacy of craftsmanship.
Read more »