Copping is the third designer to succeed Alber Elbaz, whose remake of Lanvin in the early 2000s was one of the most successful in recent fashion history. Can he remake the brand?
has had either a very strange career or a very enviable one. Born in England in 1967, he was an intern for Christian Lacroix in Paris while still in design school. He then worked as an assistant under, from 2014; and then had a break of about five years, spent mostly at his home in Normandy, in northern France, where he designed things for private clients and a line of home goods. Beforecouture, in July 2021, he got in touch with the British designer.
The collection had other novel items with an everyday sense of function, like shimmery, loose-fitting turtleneck tops on the men’s side that could also work for women; slightly baggy wool trousers; and a variety of blouses, including one in black chiffon with black velvet flocking that could perk up a suit. I just wanted to see more — and more proposals for how to individually wear the clothes. Because Copping has the breadth of experience, and the design depth at Lanvin, to do that.
In my view, the best thing about the show is that Copping didn’t get elitist or too “couture” with his style. People have remarked at clothes with a couture look, notably Simon Porte Jacquemus’s new collection, with its classic shapes and big volumes. But is that a good thing? Does it really mean anything or is it an empty gesture? Most of these kinds of efforts we’ve seen before in fashion, and sometimes done in a way that makes sense with the history of a house .
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