Is Daniel Roseberry aware that his molded shapes mimic the culture and, to an extent, mirror his audience?
When a designer’s vision of beauty is at once frightening and funny, you know it’s contemporary. That’s true of, which kicked off the Paris spring couture shows on Monday. He said he was interested in the pursuit of perfection, and once you know that, the Barbie-like flawlessness of his models, their tight coiffures, their tiny corseted waists make sense. I looked for a pore among the girls and I couldn’t find one. Their faces seemed sprayed with glycerine.
Of course, generations of designers have played with and redefined female glamour. Think of Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, and John Galliano,with most of his models cinched into corsets and with lots of transparency. In all his career, Galliano was never so focused on the body as he was in that show. And Roseberry says he has been hungry of late to understand more about the couture techniques of the great masters, mentioning Worth, Poiret, Saint Laurent, and Alaïa.
But he must be aware that his molded shapes, his almost obsessive attention to anatomy, especially breasts and hips, and camera-ready beauty mimic the culture, and to a great extent mirror his audience. And I don’t think he’s making a joke of people’s obsession with the body — perfection gone crazy — as Mugler did with conventional glamour in the ’80s. Different time, different attitudes.
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