Bonnie Slotnick, the Downtown Food-History Savant

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Bonnie Slotnick, the Downtown Food-History Savant
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Hannah Goldfield and the owner of an iconic cookbook shop browse the vast book collection of Mimi Sheraton, the late New York Times restaurant critic.

“There are about three boxes of books that are legitimately old and rare,” Slotnick said, as she began to peruse them with a practiced confidence. “There’s an eighteenth-century olive-oil treatise in Italian, with all kinds of ingredients.” The most valuable item was what Slotnick called a manuscript, an eighteenth-century handwritten British household cookbook, authored by “a very literate servant,” she guessed.

After her landlord refused to renew her lease, in 2014, she moved her store to East Second Street, where I visited her a few weeks after we met at Sheraton’s house. Shelves from floor to ceiling were crammed with books, every table piled with still more, plus some food-related antiques: plates, picnic baskets, a probe meant for trying a mystery piece of chocolate without putting it to your lips.

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