A travel writer recounts her decades-long love affair with Greece, inspired by Michael Wood's documentaries, and shares her top hotel picks across the country, from a unique mainland stay beside an ancient temple to sophisticated city retreats and car-free island escapes.
My love affair with Greece began in the 1980s - all thanks to a TV historian and academic called Michael Wood. A hugely enthusiastic presenter, Wood was one of the first to bring history to the masses with his boots-on-the-ground, easy-access documentaries.
As a sixth-former studying A-level ancient history, I struggled with dry textbooks. Then came Wood's series In Search Of The Trojan War, and suddenly classical Greece sprang to life: ancient temples and romantic mythology, amid flower-speckled islands and characters aplenty. More than four decades later, Greece remains the place I love most to visit - not least for its unhurried pace and philoxenia, the ancient tradition of hospitality that remains to this day.
I've visited many times, staying in countless hotels. From family-run B&Bs to luxurious resorts, each stay has left its mark. Here are my top ten... MY NUMBER ONE HOTEL: Ammon Zeus Hotel, Kallithea Arriving at this beachside, family-owned mainland hotel on the edge of the small town of Kallithea - on the first 'finger' of Halkidiki - feels like coming home.
You get all the trappings of a luxury stay: bright, airy rooms, a boutique subterranean spa and plump sun loungers. But what makes it special is the staff, who treat guests like family. Despite having 100 rooms, the place is compact and never feels impersonal. The food is hearty and fresh, whether you're dining at the main buffet or the more intimate, vine-roofed taverna.
There's a pool, though it's almost redundant as the private beach fringing the hotel melts straight into crystal-clear waters. Evenings unfold slowly, without the need for booming entertainment, just the sound of a live singer drifting through the velvet warmth of a Greek night and a cocktail in hand.
Angela Epstein has stayed in numerous hotels, small and large, across Greece And you can't escape the sense of history here: it's the only hotel in Greece that sits right beside an ancient temple - the Ammon Zeus, from which the hotel takes its name. Book it: Doubles from £91 in an Eco garden view room (ammon-zeus.gr).
BEST INNER-CITY HOTEL: Electra Palace, Thessaloniki The croissant-shaped Electra Palace curves round the edge of Thessaloniki's main Aristotelous Square with a sloping view to the sea. I love how it manages to dodge the marble blandness of smart city-centre hotels. Sure, there are liveried porters and furniture pieces from Greece's art scene are speckled throughout the hotel. But the staff are unstuffy and the sun-bright foyer and lounge create an easy, unhurried atmosphere.
One of the big draws is the seventh-floor Orizontes Roof Garden. I adore dawdling over bowls of freshly peeled oranges at breakfast and looking across the square and on to the shimmering waters of the Thermaikos Gulf - on a good day you can also see Mount Olympus. There's even a rooftop pool in which to cool down. Book it: Doubles from £175 B&B (electrahotels.gr).
BEST SPOT TO AVOID THE CROWDS IN BUSY RESORTS: Melenos Art Boutique Hotel, Rhodes Despite being located in the tourist honey-trap village of Lindos, this 12-suite boutique hotel is like Narnia. Access is not through a wardrobe, but via an unobtrusive side door that opens to a village within a village, with courtyards, terraces and a huddle of white-washed buildings.
Inside, art seems to come alive through the mosaic terraces, fresco ceilings, carved woodwork and Greek and international antiques curated by the owner, Michalis Melenos. There's no pool, but the beach is a short walk away. Book it: Doubles from £200 B&B (melenoslindos.com). BEST FOR DODGING TRAFFIC: Mandraki Beach, Hydra Reached by a 90-minute ferry from Athens' port of Piraeus, Hydra doesn't allow cars.
No worries for guests at the Mandraki Beach, however, who are collected from the port on the hotel's complimentary water taxi. The hotel itself - a smart, low-rise collection of 17 suites built on the site of a 19th century naval fortification - is on Hydra's only beach. The suites are on the edge of the sand, though many have mini-pools too.
Captain M, the resort's restaurant, focuses on Greek cuisine and is a draw even for non-residents thanks to dishes using freshly caught fish. Mandraki is a haven for lazy days spent devouring paperbacks under the sun. Book it: Doubles from £215 B&B (mandrakibeachresort.com). BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL: MarBella Corfu What at first glance might seem like a standard, mass-market all-inclusive hotel - with its own aqua park - turns out to have plenty of heart and a surprising touch of elegance.
As such it's an escape for families, couples and solo travellers alike. My husband and I visited without our children and still felt we could enjoy a relaxed, deluxe adult vibe thanks to a choice of pools and restaurants. Although sizeable - there are 362 rooms and suites - the MarBella is designed like a layer cake set in lush gardens..
Greece Travel Hotels Halkidiki Thessaloniki Rhodes Hydra Corfu Ammon Zeus Hotel Electra Palace Melenos Art Boutique Mandraki Beach Marbella Corfu Travel Review Greek Hospitality Philoxenia
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