Mike Sutter restaurant review: The snack-bar evolution of Jingu House

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Mike Sutter restaurant review: The snack-bar evolution of Jingu House
TED TalkTajinKimi Eizo Jingu
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The Cappy’s family raises the cafe at the Japanese Tea Garden to a restaurant worth talking about.

San Antonio is good at the whole adapt and repurpose thing. It goes way back, all the way to 1919, when a parks commissioner named J. Ray Lambert looked at the scooped-out shell of an old limestone quarry and saw paradise. Paradise? Too strong, but it fits the narrative of turning blight into beauty, and the Japanese Tea Garden at Brackenridge Park is a refreshing urban oasis.

San Antonio’s Top 25 Restaurants The Lawton era began with a grab-and-go snack bar, a claustrophobic squeezebox of a thing with coffee and boba tea and paletas. But bigger plans were in the works, plans that included adding a kitchen and reopening the cafe space next door, a compact room with a dozen small tables and windows full of garden light.

Could 400 5-star ratings be wrong at Mare e Monte? If Jingu House has a love language, that language is Japanese, with solid renditions of fresh tuna poke; crispy pork katsu like chicken-fried steak with panko breading; and pork tonkotsu ramen that won’t challenge the city’s big ramen players, but gets the job done with bone broth and glazed nuggets of pork belly. For thematic cohesion here, I’ll pretend the California roll didn’t happen.

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TED Talk Tajin Kimi Eizo Jingu Mike Sutter Cappy J. Ray Lambert La Fonda Carajillo Japanese Tea Garden San Antonio Jingu House Mama's Cafe Lawton Brackenridge Park Cappy's Restaurant Lawtons Main Top 10 Country Cafe Japan Thai Thailand Asian Korean Vietnam China California World War II Cappyccino Pan-Asian Google Translate Mare E Monte Paradise BEST OF THE BEST The Bear

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