Mike Sutter review: Could 400 5-star ratings be wrong at Mare e Monte?

Williams-Sonoma News

Mike Sutter review: Could 400 5-star ratings be wrong at Mare e Monte?
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A new Italian place in San Antonio with hundreds of perfect reviews? The reality is more complicated.

You’ll be greeted by two things when you walk through the doors at Mare e Monte , the Italian restaurant that opened April 2 in the Medical Center . The first thing is a gauntlet of bookshelves, a Williams-Sonoma store’s worth of books tightly focused on cooking. Books by chefs Thomas Keller and Jamie Oliver and Ming Tsai . Books on Italian street food and food from Provence . Cookies, cakes, desserts. Dinner from start to finish, captured on the page.

Lobster ravioli finished with chopped veal tried too hard to be surf and turf, a nod to the restaurant’s name, which translates to “sea and mountain.” Lobster’s a delicate thing, even more so as a puree inside pasta under tomato cream sauce. It doesn’t need chewy nodes of veal to help make its point, and the veal didn’t contribute anything beyond mismatched texture to the conversation.

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