In the North Bay, a barbecue battle is heating up in Sonoma County, where a popular restaurant is under fire from neighbors and the city; they say the eatery is generating too much smoke and discomfort for residents.
Saturday, May 30, 2026 3:42AMIn the North Bay, a barbecue battle is heating up in Sonoma County, where a popular restaurant is under fire from neighbors and the city.
They say the eatery is generating too much smoke and causing discomfort for residents. Austin says slow-cooking brisket and ribs at A&M Barbecue takes time. He uses a large commercial smoker and specific wood. In just two years, Austin has built a barbecue joint in downtown Sebastopol with a cult following.
"This is a feast. Anytime there's real brisket out of a smoker that's cooked for 16 hours, I have to try it," said David Imach of Rohnert Park.
"Finding good barbecue here is hard to do. These guys are the closest thing to Southern barbecue I can find," said TJ Maguire of Santa Rosa. But Austin isn't sure how long he can keep feeding his customers.
"There's a house full of smoke at a time when you want doors and windows open," said one neighbor at a recent Sebastopol City Council meeting. The city has received dozens of complaints from neighbors near the restaurant, many of whom believe the smoker is creating unhealthy air.
"I have asthma. Some nights I've woken up and my whole house smells smoky. I have to put on a mask," said Linda Civitello. Austin previously had two smokers in his parking lot; now he's down to one.
"If I felt like I was harming anybody, I would stop immediately. You have 18-wheelers and trucks and a lot of cars giving off worse emissions than we are," said Austin. The city has issued violation notices to A&M regarding zoning requirements and neighborhood concerns. In a statement, City Manager Mary Gourley said, "City staff remain committed to working with the business owner to identify compliant solutions and potential operational options moving forward.
"San Jose residents plagued by mail theft with stolen master keys amid ongoing investigation Austin says he wants to clear the air and may be forced to relocate his smoker or even his entire restaurant. "Right now, it's our peak busy season, so I have to deal with this and figure it all out. It's stressful on me, my staff and my family. It's just having faith that everything's going to work itself out," Austin said.
The city manager says Austin plans to meet with staff next week to discuss next steps for his eatery that are suitable for everyone involved.
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