A row erupted between the new owner of Morston Hall and former executive chef Galton Blackiston, leading to the chef’s departure and claims of declining standards.
Morston Hall , a renowned country house hotel in Norfolk boasting one of the UK’s longest-held Michelin stars, has been embroiled in a dispute following a change in ownership.
Henry Elworthy, the new proprietor, revealed a breakdown in his relationship with Galton Blackiston, the former executive chef, leading to Blackiston’s departure in November. Elworthy alleges that Blackiston lost interest after the sale of the business in April of the previous year, resulting in a decline in food quality and negative customer reviews. He described Blackiston’s behavior as akin to ‘a child in the kitchen’ and accused him of actively undermining the kitchen’s performance.
Despite these claims, supporters of Blackiston point to the restaurant maintaining its Michelin star just weeks before his exit, alongside its four AA Rosettes. Elworthy detailed financial struggles upon taking over the 17th-century, 13-bedroom hotel, citing a 20 percent revenue drop in the first quarter of the previous year. He further accused Blackiston of a possessive attitude, suggesting he ‘didn’t want the business to survive without him’.
The dispute extended to staffing decisions, with Elworthy criticizing Blackiston’s implementation of four-day work weeks for front-of-house staff, which he claims led to increased payroll costs due to overlapping shifts and overtime. These changes were later reversed to five-day weeks in December. Elworthy expressed the extent of his difficulties with Blackiston as being beyond description, but emphasized the positive changes implemented since the chef’s departure.
The hotel underwent a two-week refurbishment after Christmas, coinciding with the arrival of a new executive chef, Phil Kearsey, previously of Pied a Terre in London. Elworthy reports that recent guest feedback indicates the food at Morston Hall is currently the best it has been in years, reflecting the skill and creativity of the new team. The current eight-course taster menu is priced at £145 and features dishes such as truffled Orkney scallop and Merrifield duck.
The situation highlights the challenges of transitioning ownership in a high-profile culinary establishment and the importance of maintaining standards and positive relationships between owners and key personnel. The hotel aims to build on its legacy of culinary excellence and continue to attract discerning diners
Morston Hall Galton Blackiston Michelin Star Henry Elworthy Norfolk Restaurant Hotel Food Quality Staffing Dispute
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