Jenn Harris' favorite dishes of the week, including a focaccia bread ice cream from Antico Nuovo, tsukune from Kodo, braised pork belly from Tin Tin Restaurant and banh mi from Banh Mi My-Tho.
in Larchmont, our server recommended the focaccia ice cream. It was around 9 p.m. Drowsy and full, I was on the fence. I asked if I had heard her correctly. Yes, she had said focaccia, as in chef Chad Colby’s excellent bread, with its crisp, salty, oily crust and bubbly, chewy center, transformed somehow into ice cream. Why not? The base for the ice cream is fior di latte, an overtly milky flavor that is nothing like vanilla.
My Chinese grandmother is prone to grand, sweeping statements of either praise or disapproval for many. She claims the braised pork belly at Tin Tin Restaurant, tucked into the back corner of a small strip mall in Rosemead, is the best in the city and the surrounding areas. In this instance , she is correct. The slabs of pork are half-fat, half-meat, and they jiggle when the dish is plopped onto the glass Lazy Susan.
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