In the roar of the A40 and A406, under towering cranes, Park Royal’s traders and restaurateurs have served man’oushe, kubba, and shawarma for decades. But new developments and 'regeneration' are threatening the soul of this singular culinary enclave
, whose industrial area comprises almost 2,000 businesses which together employ over 40,000 people in food manufacturing, car repairs, and prop houses. The area has a long history of food production, with biscuit makers McVities and tinned food and sauce giant Heinz factories located here; the Guinness brewery was once here too. Over time, it has become home to much smaller food businesses, with up to 500 now operating within the industrial perimeter of the area.
The success of some of the original restaurants established in Park Royal has attracted new businesses, keen to capitalise on the area’s growth. Beit el Zaytoun is among the new wave of restaurants that has recently opened, set up by Lebanese-born entrepreneur Ayman Assi who spotted a potential business in a canal-side café serving English breakfasts. He convinced the owner, a friend, to let him take over in the evening, providing shisha and drinks.
. Many remained open during the lockdowns, but squeezed by the sudden disappearance of regular customers, the need to furlough staff, and the pincer grip of delivery companies like Uber Eats and Deliveroo, they had to adapt fast.Although Al Jabal managed to stay open for local delivery, Abu Tarek said that the business “went from 10 staff to only two people and me.”
“The expansion [into a fully fledged restaurant] happened when we saw people coming in to order food and standing outside eating shawarma,” says Mohammed Habasha, one of the owners. “They would say, ‘Please make us a table where we can sit and eat rather than in the car,’ so we put up a gazebo outside with some tables, and it got very busy.”The freshly made bread, burgers, and the shawarma that often runs out by early afternoon attracted the customers. Unusually, Al Enam closes at 7 p.m.
Iraqi food is not as widely known as that of its neighbours, but successive wars have prevented its international export in the way that nations with less conflict in their recent history have been able to enjoy. This is a food culture that melds Levantine, Turkish, Persian, and Indian influences — it’s uniquely flavourful and joyful.
Part of this speculated exodus has already started. One of the best-known Lebanese restaurants in London, Maroush, opened a Park Royal branch in 2021 with an attached food market and wine bar, which had been in the works for a few years. The popularity of other restaurants nearby and the desire of many locals for quality Arab food outside of central London has clearly played a part in pulling Maroush from their flagships in prime Mayfair and Kensington locations.
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