Crispy, golden brown pork-belly croquettes served with sauce gribiche is a modern and far more accessible take on the French classic called tête de veau.
Crispy, golden brown pork-belly croquettes served with sauce gribiche is a modern and far more accessible take on the French classic called tête de veau.
Daniel joined the Serious Eats culinary team in 2014 and writes recipes, equipment reviews, articles on cooking techniques. Prior to that he was a food editor at Food & Wine magazine, and the staff writer for Time Out New York's restaurant and bars section.Once boiled, shredded, and shaped into croquettes, rich, gelatinous pork belly is a great stand in for the traditional calf's head used in the classic tête de veau.
Tête de veau, literally"calf's head," is a classic dish of the French kitchen, featuring a rustic hunker of wobbly poached claves head, all fatty and meaty and deliciously gelatinous.
So that's what I did. The process is easy to do, though it does take some time: The pork belly has to be simmered in an aromatic broth until fall-apart tender, which can take more than a few hours. Then you need to shred it, season it, and roll it in some sheets of plastic wrap into a log. The fat will melt and pool, but it's fine, there's more than enough even if a good amount seeps out.
Plated on generous dollops of sauce gribiche, the result looks far more refined and complicated than the actual process is. It's not an actual plate of tête de veau, but I'm pretty sure no one will complain.In a large pot, combine pork belly with onion, carrot, celery, thyme, garlic, black peppercorns, and bay leaves. Add enough cold water to cover, add 1 tablespoon salt, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.
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