Eggplant croquettes, Bolognese, adobo and pretty much everything you could want for aubergine season.
At a birthday dinner recently, a pool of satiny, smoky eggplant pried my attention from an otherwise lively conversation. The dish was unassuming, dolloped with a bit of yogurt and a smattering of scallions and herbs. But my eyes ballooned cartoonishly with each bite, this slump of olive-oil-drenched, simply seasoned pulp a redheaded bombshell to my Tex Avery wolf.
“You take the whole fat globe eggplant, and you set it directly on the burner grate on the stovetop,” Gabrielle wrote for the New York Times Magazine in 2020. “Set the gas flame to high and scorch it. The skin forms a carbonized black bark — the kind that would usually signal ruin — while the flesh inside steams and softens until it collapses to silken and rather smoky perfection.
With more slender Japanese eggplant or adorably stout Indian eggplant, Zainab Shah’s five-star borani banjan is in order. An Afghan-style dish, it is a stunning exercise in contrasts: cooling garlicky yogurt, savory eggplant, soft and sweet tomato and vibrant pomegranate seeds and mint.
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