Weekly at Wallpaper*, ‘The Trip’ takes you on a detailed tour of an under-explored town, city or territory, direct from your living room. This week, we journey to the revered Japanese capital, Nara, which has been experiencing a cultural renaissance, l...
Weekly at Wallpaper*, ‘The Trip’ takes you on a detailed tour of an under-explored town, city or territory, direct from your living room. This week, we journey to the revered Japanese capital, Nara, which has been experiencing a cultural renaissance, led by a savvy herd of young creatives
My first stop whenever I visit the city is the little Minamo café in a lovingly restored machiya townhouse in a quiet residential area of town. Its daily lunch special is a treat; today it’s a main dish of fried aubergine topped with minced beef and soy sauce, a hearty miso soup, steamed rice and a side dish of brilliant green stir-fried string beans.
Originally scheduled for demolition, they were painstakingly restored by the Fujioka family, who wanted to show that in the right hands, these small homes could not only live on as specimens of architectural history but also lead the way in combining traditional vernacular buildings with a modern way of life.
After breakfast, I head out to explore Takabatake, the predominantly residential neighbourhood south of the Kasuga Grand Shrine. I start at the well-kept former residence of novelist Naoya Shiga. The house is a mix of traditional Japanese tatami rooms and some clearly Western-influenced additions, such as the bright Sun Room, an expansive space at the back of the house with heavy tiles underfoot and a large glazed opening in the ceiling that lets in plenty of natural light.
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