Why are this city’s beers so small?
Which led me to a question, or maybe it’s more of a demand:I tried to find one and, at first, had no luck. Red Hook Pub’s co-owner Sohui Kim told me, “We thought about it but went with the 16-ounce glasses instead.” The Commerce Inn maxes out at 16, too, though they offer the option of an admittedly delicious-looking frosted mug. The folks at Gus’s Chop House did agree with me that a pint “sounds fantastic” but “unfortunately” they don’t sell them, either.
Still thirsty, I branched out to some English-adjacent establishments that have predated this current wave.in Midtown East gets close: their cask beers — those thoroughly English, premodernity CO2-free beers — weigh in at 18 ounces, though they serve other beers at 16. The first reason, they explained, is due to the size of their kegs: They can get exactly 128 pours with 16 ounces. If they upped it to 20, they’d get 99.2 pours per keg.
on the Upper East Side, where cask beers come 20 ounces to a pour. Even better, explained general manager Andre Malinin, they price the cask beer at $12 per Imperial pint, though they should probably be more expensive. “It’s more like a hobby rather than business,” he explained. With understated pride, Malinin added, “You won’t find 20 ounces for 12 bucks” anywhere else in the city.
Perhaps not, but I did find another proper pint soon after. When I emailed Sinéad Naughton, the co-owner ofin Nomad, to ask if they serve an Imperial pint, she shot back with an authoritative, “Yes of course we do!! Is there any other kind of pint?!” On the phone she clarified they do the imported English beers in a 20-ounce mug with the rest served in the American 16-ounce size.
There. I’d found my grail. So — why did I still feel so empty? It didn’t click until I spoke with the aforementioned Englishman, Ed Szymanski of Lord’s. At his new restaurant, he doesn’t do pints, or even draft beer. “It’s just me and my wife,” he said. “We don’t have a lot of money.” Lord’s is also not a pub, which is a tough thing to define. The pub, Szymanski explained, is nota place to get alcohol: “It’s the crusty old man sitting in the corner. He’s there every day. He comes with the place.
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