The Food Lab: The Secret to Perfectly Imperfect Yakitori

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The Food Lab: The Secret to Perfectly Imperfect Yakitori
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Japanese-style grilled chicken is as foolproof as it is delicious.

Chasing perfect yakitori—Japanese-style grilled skewered chicken—is a lifelong, full-time pursuit for some.

How many different types of grilled chicken can a restaurant serve? Three? Four? Try dozens. And I'm not even talking about jazzing things up with crazy spices or sauces. Most yakitori restaurants will offer only two options for flavoring: salt and white pepper, or a sweet soy-sauce-and-mirin glaze . And the cooking technique doesn't vary much, either.

In the TORI+SALON book, there are a total of 18 photographs and steps devoted to showing you how to properly trim and cut a chicken thigh for their negima, followed by another four photographs of correct skewering technique and a further four for instructions on how they grill it. Even though yakitori is traditionally cooked over charcoal embers, the coals are intended to be completely smoke-free. This, coupled with the mild heat, means that the flavor you get from yakitori cooked on a gas flame is not significantly different from that of yakitori cooked on a live charcoal fire. Good news for gas grillers out there!As soon as the chicken is nice and golden brown, it's time to brush it with the tare glaze.

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