In a dinner series called the Line Up, line cooks, sous-chefs, and chefs de cuisine from buzzy New York restaurants get to be executive chefs for a night, Hannah Goldfield writes.
Whether he meant to or not, Bourdain did change the business, in part by stoking the public’s interest in its inner workings. His vivid portrait of life in the kitchen helped turn the line cook into an ascendant figure; a quarter of a century later, people without any particular connection to the industry are familiar with the image of a cook drinking ice water out of a plastic quart container; with the term “back of house”; with the ritual of “family meal.
” During the restaurant’s lineup meeting, after Sussman updated the front-of-house staff on changes to service—the chopped salad was eighty-sixed; it would be great to sell more of the Montauk sea bass—Soares Vieira emerged from the kitchen with two finished burgers, which he sliced into tiny wedges so everyone could have a taste. “How would you describe Roquefort to someone who’s never had it before?” a server asked. “Very nutty,” Soares Vieira said.
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