A personal reflection on the decline of flavor in romaine lettuce, comparing traditional farming practices with commercial production methods. The author discusses their childhood memories of flavorful romaine, the impact of industrial farming on taste and nutrition, and the search for authentic, flavorful lettuce varieties.
Twenty years ago, when I first returned to my native California from New York City, I tapped out a letter to the Food editor of this newspaper instructing her in no uncertain terms what exactly was what when it came to a classic Caesar salad. The letter had to do with whether to chop the leaves or not. Not! I insisted. Tap, tap, tap. I was correcting the paper with confidence and conviction. The romaine lettuce had to be left whole, except the floppy ends, which would need to be chopped off.
“Commercial growers grow for maximum production and for a particular size,” Tom Chino says. “Not for flavor.” The Chinos, by contrast, experiment with different varieties, looking not for those that will last the longest on the shelf but for varieties such as those they’re currently growing — Carlo, Dragoon and Chalupa — that will yield the best texture and the most taste. For those who can’t get farm-fresh lettuce varieties like those the Chinos grow, there is a solution.
Romaine Lettuce Organic Farming Commercial Agriculture Flavor Nutrition
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