This salad adds a spicy richness to lean, sweet watermelon. Sprinkling the melon with salt and sugar for 20 minutes draws out excess liquid to concentrate the melon’s flavor; it also seasons the melon cubes beyond their surface.
And as a bonus, the salty-sweet liquid that drains out of them does double duty for removing the raw harshness of the jalapeño chiles that get soaked in it. If you want a less spicy dressing, remove the seeds from the chile before adding the slices to the blender. Similarly, if you want a less spicy salad, omit the remaining chile slices added at the end.
Combine the coriander and cumin seeds in a small skillet over medium heat and cook, swirling occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a small blender and process until finely ground. Add one third of the chile slices and the garlic cloves followed by the lemon juice and let stand for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, place the remaining chile slices under the colander holding the watermelon in the fridge so they are floating in the liquid that has drained out of the melon.
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