Review: Gordon Ramsay’s new restaurant at the Wharf in D.C. is about as relaxing as eating in a pinball machine. But the menu offers some delicious reasons to visit.
Bridging the dining rooms is an open kitchen that appears to be a block long. “It looks like the kitchen from TV, but there’s no competition!” says a waiter with all the glee of someone who just won the lotteryfound a Franklin on the sidewalk. Like a lot of staff here, he acts thrilled to work at the second of Ramsay’s Washington imports, the first beingand the next being Gordon Ramsay Street Pizza in Penn Quarter.
A companion pushes a skillet of meatballs my way. Everyone serves meatballs these days, I think to myself as I pluck an orb from the dish. Again, I’m surprised. The meatballs, shaped from Wagyu beef and pork and seasoned with fennel and oregano, are tender and delicious. So is their sauce, coaxed from San Marzano tomatoes, onions and garlic. Did some Italian nonna slip into the kitchen? Better still, the meatballs share their skillet with a crisp counterpoint, polenta croutons.
The popular beef Wellington costs $65 but is easily shared. The beef is cooked one temperature, medium-rare, and reveals considerable thought. A housemade crepe separates the rosy meat from the puff pastry, which keeps beef juices at bay and leaves the outside crisp. Dijon mustard adds some welcome bite to the show, whose presentation includes balls of vegetables, an inky reduction and a ring of buttery pureed potatoes.
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