Retail for a Brave New World

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Retail for a Brave New World
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On Friday, Dries Van Noten will open his first store in America—in Los Angeles. “L.A. is a great city because you can do things by trial and error, I don’t know that New York would be so forgiving if you do some things that don’t work,” he told CathyHoryn

Photo: Jim Mangan Opening a brick-and-mortar store during a pandemic, and at a time when many companies are banking on e-commerce, seems like a risk or, at best, a counterintuitive move. But that’s exactly what Dries Van Noten is doing. On Friday, he will open his first store in America — in Los Angeles.

“It’s been quite exciting to find a store in lockdown and then design it in lockdown,” Van Noten told me on Zoom. “Looking for all the pieces of furniture in the evenings on 1stDibs. And now putting it all together by FaceTime and Zoom. So it’s really a virtual store for me.” To that end, the shop will host artists’ exhibitions, musicians, and eventually lectures and even presentations by local fashion designers. His friend, the designer Ann Demeulemeester, who with Van Noten was part of the Antwerp Six, which ushered in Belgian fashion in the late ’80s, will take over the Little House for the next five weeks to present tableware, cutlery, and lamps she creates for Serax. A jewelry designer named Alan Crocetti will show his work in a space in the main building.

As we Zoomed through the women’s sections on the main floor, Van Noten said, “I wanted to include art in the store, but I didn’t want to have that mercantile aspect, or that prestige aspect — Look, we have the most expensive artworks in the store. So we asked young up-and-coming artists to paint directly on the walls.” The work will stay there for a year and then be painted over.

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