Helen Rosner reviews Le Veau d’Or, the classic N.Y.C. restaurant now owned by the team behind Frenchette and Le Rock, Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr.
You certainly don’t need to know anything about the backstory of Le Veau d’Or before stepping inside for dinner, though plenty will reveal itself in the course of the evening.
The omelette is silken and exquisite, a showpiece of technical precision, though the pâté is, too: savory and well-spiced in its pastry frame, shot through with golden veins of jellied consommé. The pommes, like three-dimensional potato chips, paper-thin and hollow inside, are awfully fun to snap open and pile with the cream and ruddy fish eggs. This feeling of having entered a perfectionist time machine carries through to the next course.
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