Consistency issues plague this popular Korean fried chicken joint
There’s KFC, courtesy of Colonel Sanders, and then there’s KFC, Korean fried chicken. The former is associated with the South and is served with mashed potatoes while the latter is served in Korean soap operas and is a critical component of hallyu, or the “Korean wave” of pop culture that has swept our cultural consciousness in recent years.
Unlike Southern-style fried chicken, which is usually brined and battered with a mixture of buttermilk and flour before being fried in oil, Korean fried chicken is lighter and crispier, double-fried for a super-juicy interior and crispy-crunchy crust. It’s been something of a sleeper dish in these parts, with only a few restaurants here and there offering it, from Pocha Is Back in Crestview to Hi Wings in Northcross to the national chain b.
From the “Snacks” portion of the menu, we tried the Brussels sprouts, spicy fried rice cakes, and the chicken dumplings. The sprouts are plentiful, flavorful, and oily. Split these with at least two other people for your arteries’ sake. The rice cakes , a popular Korean street food, are typically stewed in the chili sauce, but Donkey Mo’s drenches a mound of them in a palate-blasting spicy sauce that is sure to be divisive.
It might seem nitpicky to call out the drink selection at Donkey Mo’s, but the lack of attractive drink options affected my dining experiences there, so I’m going to pick those nits. Korean fried chicken is typically served with draft beer, and Donkey Mo’s has about a half-dozen options on tap including Pinthouse Brewing’s Electric Jellyfish for a reasonable $7 per pint.
Listen, growing is hard. I imagine it’s doubly so when a business starts out as a grocery-store food stall and expands into a brick-and-mortar. I think diners are willing to forgive shortcuts and sloppiness when they are dining in the über-casual grocery store context, but those same shortcuts are brought into stark relief when your business is the only name on the door.
Korean Fried Chicken Youngmin Noh
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