A study condemning rental clothing behavior sparked new questions and challenges on circular fashion models.
On Monday, Rent the Runway confidentially filed paperwork with the Securities and Exchange Commission for an initial public offering. The company declined to share details with WWD Tuesday, but, according to the release, the number of shares to be offered and the price haven’t yet been determined.
As with report cards condemning fashion’s sustainability “offenders,” the attention on rental is earned by the model chalking up the highest impact due to delivery, in the study. However, one of the report’s coauthors Jarkko Levänen, assistant professor of sustainability science, emphasized that the findings are “not claiming that all renting/sharing options are unsustainable,” but meant to flag the complex issues within circular fashion models.
Onloan makes use of wet-washing and ozone technology to clean its rental garments, as do most U.K.-based rental businesses like By Rotation, My Wardrobe HQ, Rotaro and Something Borrowed — meaning the generalization of the study that all rental companies use harmful dry-cleaning processes doesn’t quite stand.
Another assumption in the study was that purchased clothing is being worn up to 200 times, while data from the Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group supports that the real average wear per garment is more like 10 times . While research from consultancies like GFA and BCG supports the idea that clothing rental reduces the need for manufacturing masses of new clothing — so does resale.
With the rise of counterfeits and mainstreaming of resale, authentication flip-flops could leave room for expanded research on best practices. As is the case in any authentication process, it doesn’t matter how good a counterfeit is — once an item fails inspection, it’s useless to the reseller and is shipped back to the seller and the buyer is refunded.
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