From a hidden Thai tasting-menu extravaganza to an Indonesian coffee house, Portland’s Southeast Asian food scene is stacked with excellence
Nong Poonsukwattana arrived in the U.S. in 2003 with two suitcases and $70. A few years later she’d saved up just enough to buy a food cart, and went into business preparing and serving her signature dish every day until it sold out. She eventually raised enough to open a brick-and-mortar location on each side of the river.
Nong’s Khao Man Gai specializes in the Thai version of chicken and rice. Poonsukwattana poaches free-range chicken in water, ginger, pandan leaves, and garlic; chicken fat gets rendered with shallot, galangal, pandan leaves, and garlic; jasmine rice is cooked in the aromatic fat and broth. The care put into each step is palpable in the final product. Go early and ask for a bag of fried chicken skins, which are almost always sold out within hours of opening.
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