In Mar del Plata, a vacation town situated on Argentina’s North Atlantic coast, South America’s favorite cookie — alfajores — are lovingly handcrafted.
This alfajor glaseado is more frequently referred to as a marplatense—an unequivocal nod to the pastry’s origin, but also an attitude that envelops the city. At the turn of the 19th century, Mar del Plata was founded as a summer getaway for the country’s elite who built opulent oceanside estates and a long boardwalk modeled after European beach cities.
In spite of years of industrialization, Mar del Plata’s artisan alfajor producers have remained resilient. In fact, these bakeries are so numerous that they inspire fanatical Instagram accounts like crime reporter-turned-alfajor historian Mariano Lopez’, where he records the minutiae that makes each baker unique, from the integrity of a cookie’s crumble to its height-to-filling ratio.
“Once my mom had perfected the recipe she handed it off to us and told us to get to work,” Di Meglio explains. “Her job is done. Now it’s up to me, my dad, and my brothers.” Initially, the family didn’t use cookie cutters and they dipped each alfajor by hand—hence the name: Malfatti translates to “poorly made” in Italian. “Nothing was uniform,” Di Meglio says, “but that was how we developed our reputation.”Business is now booming.
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