My experience with Dry January, conducted a couple of years ago, was unconvincing, especially in the realm of no-alcohol cocktails.
No Nogronis for me, thanks. Several bottles of dispirited spirits — some attempting to pass for tequila, others striking out in entirely new directions — currently gather dust on my bar.
Dogged experimentation, though, has led to the creation and marketing of some surprisingly successful alternatives to standard brews, among them several produced by Athletic Brewing, a pioneering brand well represented in San Antonio. The company makes more than a dozen styles, roughly half of which have turned up on local H-E-B, Central Market and Whole Foods shelves.
A healthy but not too exuberant foam precedes the Cerveza Atletica Light Copper, which seems positioned somewhere between a typical Mexican lager and a darker brew such as Negra Modelo. There's good, prickly carbonation and a pleasant, malty molasses quality that results in an appealing style all its own.
Samuel Adams is a brewing behemoth in craft clothing, and for that reason I was predisposed not to like its Just the Haze IPA. Wrong. It poured with a big, foamy head and aromas of piney hops. There was a tamed bitterness on the palate further softened by a unique and almost creamy mouthfeel. I didn't feel I was sacrificing anything for virtue when it came to this"malt beverage."
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