A leading light in India's burgeoning farm-to-table movement, Mumbai-based Vanika Choudhary is shining a spotlight on preservation and foraged ingredients.
A leading light in India's burgeoning farm-to-table movement, Mumbai-based Vanika Choudhary is shining a spotlight on preservation and foraged ingredients.Vanika Choudhary is surrounded by a mind-bending array of salts, pickles and ferments. There are yuzu-fermented cherries, achars made from swede-like tamyung from Ladakh and herby Himalayan salt.
Here, close to the foothills of the Himalayas, her father, a silk producer and botanist, would nurture crops and sun-dry morels on the roof. Meanwhile, her mother and grandmother would use a pestle and mortar to pound seasonal achars: mango in summer, fiddlehead ferns during the monsoon, galgal and kohlrabi in winter. And when Choudhary was pregnant and living in Mumbai, craving the flavours of her childhood — gucchi pulao and kanji — the concept for her next venture, Noon, gathered pace.
She’s also keen to address the decline in foraging she’s seen in many of India’s more remote regions in recent years. Choudhary showcases wild foods at her restaurants in an effort to revive the practice and retain vital skills — and she’s already seeing the impact.
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