Meet the Icons of Taipei’s Renowned Street Food Scene

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Meet the Icons of Taipei’s Renowned Street Food Scene
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'If you’re going to sell food in Taipei, it’s gotta be delicious or Taiwanese people won’t come. Look at that line, they’re all Taiwanese — you can’t trick Taiwanese people' — Lin Yueh-jin, Mama Liu's Rice Rolls

shui jian bao

Brown sugar lemonade, soy milk, and coffee with milk. Frozen mangoes at the height of summer. Refreshment and old-school Taiwanese music in a scenic spot with mountain views on the side of Taipei’s mangrove-lined riverside bicycle path. My family has been making o-dei for more than 30 years now. It’s not an easy snack to find in Taipei because it comes from southern Taiwan. That’s where we come from too. Most of our customers are from this neighborhood. We sell up to 200 o-dei each day. It’s the most popular thing on our menu, but a lot of work goes into it — we have to shell all the oysters by hand. A lot of people also like our turnip cakes; we also make those by hand.

I’m from the third generation of my family to work here, my grandfather started this shop four decades ago. He was born in China, so he made Shandong-style bao zi. In the beginning, we only sold three kinds of bao zi: pork, pork with cabbage, and pork with Chinese chives. Over the years, we’ve added new flavors like pork with sun-dried pickled cabbage, or vegetarian fillings like king oyster mushroom.

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