The old Del Posto space has been reborn.
, housed in the former Del Posto space in Chelsea, is a near impossible project on paper. Rodriguez ran the Del Posto kitchen after Marc Ladner’s departure in 2017. Katz had taken over as general manager eight years earlier, and when the landmark restaurant closed for Covid-19 in 2020 and permanently in 2021, the duo bought the business and set about gutting the space, exercising the demons of former owner and reimagining what fine dining should feel like post-pandemic.
Mostly, Katz and Rodriguez wanted to purge any hint of fussiness, and opening Mel’s, their wood-fired pizzeria, earlier this year helped loosen everyone up. Rodriguez hadn’t worked in a casual restaurant for two decades and found herself stripping away ideas and components from dishes. “Your normal developmental behaviors have to be questioned,” she says. “And the same thing goes for service in the dining room.
But diners do want a show, especially at a restaurant like Al Coro that’s built for celebrations and blow-outs, and in place of exaggerated service steps and tableside theater, they’re getting it with live music. A balcony-as-stage now anchors the dining room, where rotating bands will perform each night. The evening I visited, vocalist Alicia Olatuja, dressed in a silver-sequined dress, sang from this mezzanine, framed like the Madonna by newly constructed arches..
In the last few years, so much of the high-end dining I’ve eaten has felt rather obvious and safe. But that’s not Rodriguez’ game at Al Coro. “The meal has moments that are a little overwhelming and fun and then more precious and serious,” she says.
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