Cold tofu is the only thing I want to eat in this SoCal heat
“Simple is better.” Morihiro Onodera is telling me about the different flavors of tofu he’s made over the years. The chef behind Morihiro restaurant in Atwater Village is one of the most revered sushi masters in the country. He’s also been making his own tofu since he was a child on his family’s farm in Fujisawa, Japan. Onodera has made tofu with pureed sweet white summer corn when it’s in season. He’s even made tofu with beets. “It looked really unique,” he says with a laugh.
What follows the tofu is a meal of seasonal vegetables, grilled fish, fried shellfish, artfully prepared nigiri and dessert worthy of the highest celebration. But those six spoonfuls of tofu at the start are pure bliss. My affinity for the cold tofu at Yess, chef Junya Yamasaki’s restaurant in the Arts District, has little to do with the actual block of good, cold tofu and a lot to do with the fact that it’s drowning in my favorite condiment.
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