“Our whole goal is to present product in a way that guys get it and understand it, versus ‘Here’s some crazy aspirational brand—you go figure it out on your own.’ ”
Robb Recommends: At This N.Y.C. Restaurant, Fried Chicken and Champagne Pair for an Ultra-Luxe ExperienceWhat do you get when a down-to-earth Midwesterner with an architectural bent cultivates an obsession with Italian fabrics, a love of English shop culture, and aexhibition in January, the designer discusses the label’s move upmarket, the state of American luxury, getting collaborations right, and the “superpower” of decoding fashion for men.
It was almost like a rebirth of the brand in a way. I wanted to be able to show who I am and what thebrand means for our next phase. I think it’s very important to reposition ourselves at that level—plus it helps bring so much energy into the brand. Italy is really special to me because all of our fabrics are Italian, and when I fell in love with fashion back in the ’80s, ’90s, it was Armani, it was mostly Italians that I looked at. brought me back to what got me into this business.
Your label is also known for its e-commerce, direct-to-consumer success. What’s the key to creating authenticity online? And will you need to tweak your approach going forward given the new direction? My hack has always been that I think of a character, a persona. What I love about Paul Newman is that he can dress up or he can be on a motorcycle in jeans and he looks cool as hell. And this was before stylists. This is him being him—he doesn’t change who he is. Which to me says a lot. Alain Delon is another who’s just so cool and timeless. Luckily we’ve had a lot of celebrities wear our product. Jake Gyllenhaal’s one of my favorites. Ryan Gosling, Ryan Reynolds—they all buy it.
I use this word a lot, but it’s all about juxtaposition. How do you take two things that you don’t typically Obviously, Ralph is king of that kingdom, but there are a lot of interesting players. You have the big houses that are well backed, well funded—they pump a lot of money into the machine, and they get a lot of attention. They all have a playbook, and if you notice, it’s the same playbook. The difference with American luxury is, there’s no big houses saying, “Here’s a wad of cash, let’s go hire all these celebrities and then stage a big-ass runway show.
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