Learn how to use a French hair pin for elegant twists, buns, and updos that last all day with tips and tricks from a pro hairstylist.
A French twist is the chicest way to throw your hair up on-the-fly, but if you don't know how to use a French hair pin the right way, the style can feel more frustrating than effortless. Love the look, but can't get your pin to hold? You're not alone.
But with a little practice, you'll start reaching for a French pin over your trusty claw clip for an everyday updo. Timeless hairstyles are having a moment in 2026—especially thanks to our Carolyn Bessette Kennedy-fueled infatuation with classic hair accessories. “French pins are trending now because fashion has shifted from loud and bold to understated luxury and simple elegance,” says expert stylist and Mint Tools co-founder Van Hong. “Hairstyles are returning to a refined, polished look with a 90s influence.” Beyond style, French pin hairstyles cause less damage to your strands than high-tension styles: “They do not leave creases in the hair and cause less stress, promoting healthy hair with no breakage,” Hong says. They're also versatile; just about anyone with collarbone-length hair or longer can use this accessory. Although, Hong notes, the classic French pin styles work especially well for fine to medium textures, and thicker hair may require two pins to hold. Ahead, Hong breaks down everything you need to know to nail your next French pin updo—from hair prep to techniques for all-day hold. How to prep your hair for a French pin style In order to keep your French pin secure, you'll need to create a little traction. In this case, a little grease may work in your favor: “Second-day hair is best and is the easiest to work with,” Hong says. If your hair is too clean or straight, it might be too slippery to hold the pin in place—which is why he recommends against trying a French pin style on flat-ironed or freshly washed hair. “Build a foundation so that hair becomes more pliable,” Hong suggests. “Use a texturizing spray or a clay powder for extra grip. Finish with an aerosol spray to hold the style.” If your hair is naturally straight, try adding texture before attempting a French pin style. That might mean sleeping in braids, adding some waves, or planning to pin up a second-day blowout. Before crafting your updo, Hong also recommends applying a styling spray or mousse to smooth and prep your hair. Another pro tip: “For fine hair that needs extra volume at the base, use the Mint Crimper to create at texture at the base of the hair for natural volume and extra grip for the pin to hold.” How to put your hair up using a French pin, step-by-step Below, Hong walks us through his techniques for creating two simple updos using a French pin. Simple Bun Step 1 Pull your hair into a low, mid, or high ponytail based on where you want the bun to sit. Hold your hair firmly in one hand. Step 2 Twist the ponytail around itself until a ballerina-style bun is formed. Step 3 Hold the pin almost flat against your head, then gently slide the pin into the outer surface of the bun. If the pin is curved, position it so that it is curving upward or away from your head, not toward it. Step 4 Scoop a small amount of hair close to the scalp, then rotate the pin 180°. Step 5 Push the pin back in the direction of the bun to secure the bun or chignon. Make sure that it feels secure, then finish with a flexible-hold hairspray. French Twist Step 1 Use both hands to gather your hair into a ponytail hair at the nape of your neck. Step 2 Start to twist your hair upward against against your head. Stop when you've reached the spot where you want the top of your style to hit. Step 3 Tuck your ends into the twist and use your fingers to refine the shape, folding the entire twist inward. Hold the twist securely with one hand. Step 4 Insert the pin by sliding it into the top layer of the roll of hair. Be careful not to insert the pin too close to your scalp initially, as this can lead to tension when you rotate it. Step 5 When most of the pin is inserted in your twist, scoop it closer to your scalp. Rotate it 180° , then push it back into the twist. This technique will create enough tension for the style to hold, whereas simple sticking the pin into your twist would cause it to fall. Even with the right techniques, using a learning how to use French hair pin takes a little practice. Be patient with yourself as you're trying out different style and angles to learn what works comfortably in your hair. A French pin should never cause pain—either when being inserted or in a final style. If your hair feels like it's being pulled too tightly, take it out and try again, this time inserting closer to the surface of your style on your fist pass. The good news? Most pros agree that once the technique clicks, you'll have it down for life. Practice makes perfect, but before you know it, you'll start looking forward to your chic second-day styles. Grace McCarty is the associate beauty editor at Glamour.
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