Patek Philippe's first new line of watches in 25 years shocked enthusiasts around the world. Perhaps there's something deeper going on here.
Lange Nation, Rejoice! The German Watchmaker Just Dropped 4 New Lange 1s, a watch that stirred up some controversy upon its release in 2022. Just last month Patek released a far more controversial watch: the, the brand has led with the platinum 5822P calendar watch in its initial advertising campaign, thus empowering this reference to fuel initial reactions.
Famously, the Lange 1 uses the golden ratio and the related rule of thirds to arrange its dial. Without going too far into it, these are something like rules that guide designers toward what are thought to be universally appealing layouts. As you can see in the image below, the Lange 1 deconstructs its dial into asymmetry, but the elements are arranged to form a very pleasing equilateral triangle. The Lange 1 is broadly regarded as a modern classic of watch design—a grand success.
Drawing his eye to the lower half of the dial, Johnson echoed my reaction: “Look how pinched off those indicies are between four and seven o’clock. It looks like has been shoehorned.” Comparing the tranquil Lange 1 to the Cubitus 5822P raises persistent—and probably unanswerable—questions about aesthetics: Are there proportions and ratios that reliably deliver beauty almost every time for almost everyone? Or can compositions be tossed about willy-nilly with varying degrees of appeal ? In other words: Is beauty universal or relative?
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