Patek Philippe launched its first new collection of watches in 25 years when the Cubitus debuted in Munich.
Meet the 5 Entrepreneurs That Could Be the Next Big Names in Global Luxuryline of watches—its first new collection in 25 years—landed with a splash, but not the kind the brand was expecting.magazine , the reveal had watch enthusiasts so shocked, there are entire YouTube videos dedicated to whether it’s fake or not. In fact, even serious longtime collectors we spoke with ahead of the reveal said they also thought it was fake. Some even thought the company had leaked the release itself on purpose.
Thinking outside the box for a top-of-the-line luxury brand like Patek Philippe instead meant the drop of a new watch collection that looked awfully close to its longtime bestseller, the Nautilus. “You should not always reinvent everything from zero,” says Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern from the company’s German HQ in Munich. “Why? Take the best of what you know and improve it.” The leaked model, the 45 by 9.6 mm platinum Ref.
Beyond the case shape, the big news for the Ref. 5822P is its new movement, the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU, which is based on the 240PS IRM CLU. It combines a large date window, moon phase, and day of the week indications that all change simultaneously in 18 milliseconds. The caliber resulted in the filing of six patents for its tangential brake, dual-function spring mechanism, flexible corrector, dual-function spring, flexible plate, and positioning mechanism.
Stern is not the least bit concerned when confronted about the comparisons to the Nautilus. In fact, he says “they’re right.” He adds that he absolutely looked to both the Nautilus and Aquanaut to create the Cubitus. He also considered pieces from Patek Philippe’s history. “We had some from the past,” he says, referring to previous square-shape models. “Even I created one a long time ago for the 1599—the most complex case we ever did until today.
Even if you think it’s too square, in both senses of the word, the Cubitus is bound to have its moment in the spotlight. And if you love it, you won’t be able to get your hands on one any time soon unless you are part of Patek’s elite inner circle. Despite the fact that Stern says the new collection is aimed at bringing in a fresh crop of younger clientele, Patek novices will remain aspirational. “The first ones will got to all the VIPs and the big clients of the retailers,” Stern admits.
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