“We needed joy and fantasy and escapism, and that’s truer today than it ever was.' Halpern's spring 2021 collection is here! See every look now and read our full review:
When Donald Trump won the election in 2016, Michael Halpern was in Milan working on a Versace couture collection. “I went into work hysterically crying. Everyone was very understanding,” he recalled in a preview for his new collection. Halpern is an ultra-liberal New Yorker in Europe, and Donatella Versace had immediately offered him a job after he graduated from Central Saint Martins that summer. But suddenly, the world of opportunity seemed a lot less bright.
“We needed joy and fantasy and escapism, and that’s truer today than it ever was, with all the horrible things that are happening in the U.S.,” he said. “This isn’t me turning a blind eye to those things. It’s a response.” So was the collection he created in reflection of the events of 2020. After spending the spring volunteering in a makeshift PPE factory in London, Halpern decided to devote his platform to the heroines “who put their lives on the line for us every day.
“Doing bespoke is something I really love. Generally, the women who are buying bespoke clothing are not sample size, so I’m very used to making clothes in all different sizes,” he said, surrounded by rails of plume and sequins in the plush manor house suite at the Rosewood Hotel, where his press appointments took place. For Halpern, this season’s project confirmed his belief in body-positive and age-embracing fashion.
Suspended somewhere between the 1930s and ’70s, the louche pajamas, housecoats with trains, and ladylike tweed suits Halpern sent through his kaleidoscopic machine of jacquard, animal prints, and marabou may not have conjured immediate images of activism. But this designer, 32, belongs to a generation who understands that influence comes in many forms.
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