Germany and Austria travel: Mountain backdrops and Christmas markets

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Germany and Austria travel: Mountain backdrops and Christmas markets
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On trip to Germany, view from atop Munich church helps savor the region's holiday...

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The next day, I felt like Jack Shephard in “Lost.” I told my familial travel crew, “You won’t believe what I saw. We have to go back.” And like every other maniacal person who swears others should see what he’s seen, I was left with an empty sack and a doubting audience. The following night, there was no performance on the balcony of the Marienplatz. What I’d seen was, apparently, a singular moment — a brilliant bird that landed, perched and flew away.

When my crew pulled into Mittenwald, a blizzard was on the way — evident because a salt truck slowed our progress into the town — and the sun’s beams were gently nestling behind the mountains. Unlike Garmisch-Partenkirschen a half hour away, Mittenwald is not a tourism draw for its slate of activities. That said, one would be hard-pressed to find a better place to spend 36 hours with the most mountainous of backdrops.

Salzburg has done some soul-searching over the years. A statue of Herbert von Karajan stands behind a fence. One of the greatest conductors of the 20th century nevertheless had dubious affiliations in the 1930s. On the flip side is a Stefan Zweig Center, which had limited hours but attempts to honor a writer who adored Austria and was ruined by its descent into the Third Reich. Zweig fans can find his home, though it’s not open for visitation.

Museums are not hard to find in Munich — fling a stollen and you’ll hit one. The Pinakothek is a three-part art museum institution that offers art in its three locations that falls into the categories of old, less old and modern.

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