Ideas that let this fleeting summer produce's mellow garlicky flavor shine.
Stirring in the olive oil instead of blending it in means it's less likely the pesto will become bitter.
In the early days of summer, the vibrant green curlicue tangles of garlic scapes start cropping up at farmers’ markets. These long shoots are, in fact, the harvested unopened flower stems that erupt from the top of hardneck garlic bulbs. Farmers lop these stems off to encourage the growth of plump garlic cloves in the below-ground bulbs. If the scapes are left to grow unchecked, the plants divert their energy towards blooming the flowers, producing smaller, less flavorful bulbs.
Scapes have a softer, less assertive flavor than raw garlic cloves, with a fresh vegetal note, and they can be used in both raw and cooked applications. One of my favorite ways to highlight their mellow garlicky flavor is to make them into a pesto by blending raw scapes with pine nuts, fresh lemon juice and zest, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, basil, and extra-virgin olive oil. For this recipe, I keep the pine nuts raw, which adds a nutty roundness to the pesto.
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