Garlic lovers poke fun at recipes that call for a single clove — but maybe there’s a reason for those stingy measurements
. Those kinds of recipes have been increasingly fun to explore, says Laperruque: “I think we’re in a wave of garlic not being an accent but a forefront player.”
Not all of Lalli Music’s savory recipes include garlic, but sometimes, skipping it is more an editorial choice than a gustatory one. Her training attaught her that if a feature story had several recipes, each one needed a sense of differentiation. If lots of recipes leaned in the same oil-then-garlic direction, she might be inclined to skip the pairing in others.
What some recipe readers regard as garlic’s disappointing scarcity might also point to the limitations of the recipe as a form. Mims says his focus when developing recipes is to provide context, yet he has to condense it into as little space as possible.
What seems to get lost in the garlic zealotry sometimes is the acceptance that other flavors can shine on their own, delicious and delicate without garlic or other heavy seasonings. Consider Marcella Hazan’s famous tomato sauce. It contains three ingredients: tomatoes, butter, and onion. The recipe has five stars on NYT Cooking,, with comments calling it “sublime” and “a revelation.
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